Escape to Tiki Kai in Hermosa Beach

Each drink is served in a unique tiki mug with a special garnish. (photo by Jakob Layman)

There’s always a good excuse to visit your local tiki bar. Say it’s summer – is there a better place to cool down than a dark, breezy bar with ice-cold drinks that burst with fresh citrus juices and fruity liqueurs? Almost Christmas? I don’t know about you, nothing says Yuletide like spiced rum. Or maybe there’s simply a Hawaiian shirt that’s been collecting dust in the back of your closet for too long. Time to bust it out and try L.A.’s newest tropical watering hole, Tiki Kai.

The bar opened in late fall just steps away from the Hermosa Beach Pier – a point of convergence for surfers and tourists that feels like the Southern California you might see on a postcard. Tiki bars are rooted in escapism, a fantastical oasis that lovingly blends Polynesian décor with Caribbean rum and vaguely pan-Asian cuisine. But in Hermosa Beach, tiki feels right at home. With towering palm trees and million-dollar sunsets, a Mai Tai, a Navy Grog or a Blue Hawaiian goes down easy.

In lieu of a bouncer, a 14-foot tiki mask with glowing red eyes guards the bar. To enter, one must surrender to its power and step through its gaping mouth. Don’t worry – if this is too frightening, there’s also outdoor seating for the faint of heart. Inside, the tiki atmosphere is amplified by suspended skulls, rattan lanterns, multicolored hanging glass fishing floats, and of course, more tiki masks and totems at every corner. A long bar with at least a dozen seats entertains guests who are there for the main attraction – rum. Yes, there’s beer and wine. But ordering a pinot noir under a bamboo canopy while “Wipe Out” by the Surfaris splashes from the speakers just doesn’t feel right.

Meanwhile, friends old and new sit at tables and wraparound booths and marvel as servers arrive with ornate tiki mugs topped with elaborate garnishes. If you’re new to tiki drinks, expect to see forests of orchids, mint sprigs and pineapple fronds atop your beverage. Some drinks might even be aflame – like my first drink of the night, the Jet Pilot.

A blend of rums, cinnamon, grapefruit, lime, bitters and falernum – a sweet, syrupy, Caribbean concoction of ginger, baking spices and subtle almond – the Jet Pilot flies smooth without a hint of turbulence. While many tiki bars are famous for their strong – sometimes downright dangerous – drinks, Tiki Kai errs on the side of caution. Though the rum’s presence is certainly felt, it’s the aromatic spice notes that take center stage in the Jet Pilot.

There’s no better metric for the success of a tiki bar than its Mai Tai. The most famous of all tiki drinks, a great Mai Tai can easily take any bar to the next level. However, the Mai Tai’s fame can also be its downfall. So often bastardized is the Mai Tai that one sub-par sip can quickly sink the ship. A perfect Mai Tai is simple – rum, lime, orange liqueur and a hint of almond. No pineapple juice. And please, no grenadine.

Thankfully, Tiki Kai’s “O.G. ’44 Mai Tai” passes the test. With a “secret rum blend” and all the necessary ingredients, it delivers on each note without doing too much. The orgeat syrup brings forward a nutty vanilla flavor that’s just sweet enough without being cloying, and the funky Caribbean rum packs a lingering flavor that keeps one coming back for a second sip. I’d go as far to say it’s one of the best Mai Tais you’ll find anywhere in Los Angeles.

Ordering food at a tiki bar can sometimes be a gamble. At Tiki Kai, however, it’s a safe bet. With an extensive food menu of appetizers, shareable plates, entrees and dessert, Tiki Kai is decidedly a bar and restaurant. For the most “authentic” tiki experience – à la Trader Vic’s – I sampled the “make your own pupu platter,” with Crab Rangoon, firecracker shrimp, crispy rice, sticky ribs and Hamachi crudo. Some plates shine more than others – I’d probably skip the ribs next time – but overall, everything satisfies, especially after a few drinks. The Crab Rangoon – an American Chinese tiki classic – delivers a flavorful crunch that’s pleasantly light on the cream cheese filling. The refreshing Hamachi crudo topped with bright ponzu rivals any of L.A.’s many great sushi restaurants. The standout, however, is the crispy rice. The jasmine rice cakes are fried to perfection while maintaining their signature stickiness, and lay the foundation for a bed of plump spicy yellowfin tuna drizzled with unagi sauce.

Overall, Tiki Kai is a worthy haunt for any seasoned tiki fan or simply those looking for a fun night out with friends. If you find yourself wandering the shores of the South Bay, stop into Tiki Kai for a memorable escape.

Tiki Kai is located at 73 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach. For information, visit tikikai.com.